The Top Gun of Lures

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TOPWATERS ARE TOPS for saltwater plugging. The surface lure carries that light-tackle game to a higher level because two additional senses, sight and sound, are brought into play when a fish strikes. 

The contact is abrupt and thrilling. There is nothing timid about a jacked-up predator rising to snatch fleeing prey from the surface. Some topwater strikes are more dramatic than others, but all are an eyeful,  especially when the blast or boil occurs following several hours of empty casting.

And, as a bonus, surface lures often attract the larger fish that feed primarily on baitfish.

One of the largest catch-and-release speckled trout of my career crushed a topwater plug over a shell reef in Louisiana’s Lake Calcasieu. It scaled 9 lbs 4oz. And, moments later, a larger one pulled free. At least, it seemed larger. The blowup was bigger, and it made a longer run. It just pulled off underwater, soul-deadening slack!

Along the Texas coast, topwater plugs are most effective on specks and almost as good on redfish, and by happy coincidence, our two top light-tackle gamefish. Chunking floaters has great tradition and a cultlike following prevails among salty waders in all our primary bay systems.

Three basic types of “hard” (hollow plastic or wood) plugs are available, but the overwhelming favorite design is the so-called dogwalker. These cigar-shaped lures with sets of dangling trebles were spawned by the original Heddon Zaragossa, a wooden lure introduced in the 1920s.

The Zaragossa was intended primarily for largemouth bass, but saltwater anglers in Florida soon discovered it was kick-ass for the usual inshore suspects.

During the 1950s, Heddon offered the plastic Zara Spook (so named because the hollow body was ghostly opaque). Giving credit where due, the DNA of that version is responsible for proliferation of current dogwalkers on today’s tackle shelves.

Incidentally, “dogwalker” stems from the side-to-side cadence given by rod tip and reel crank during the retrieve. Proper coordination allows the buoyant plug to skate back and forth, creating a seductive wake that the nearest goggle-eyed sow speck finds hard to resist.

Learning proper dog walking technique requires practice, as does learning proper freespool casting technique, sufficient reason that salty pluggers are justly proud of the stylized act they carry to the tide line. 

But rigorously working a dogwalker is not for everyone. The constant jiving action can be fatiguing on wrists and forearms during a long day of steady casting. High-riding models are easier to coax, but sadly, easier to miss strikes on. 

Despite the dominance of dogwalkers, another effective and easier-to-fish option is available. 

A favorite of mine is the slush-type plug. Most models are cigar-shaped, similar in profile to the dogwalkers, but fitted with small propellers. Some sport only a tail prop, others boast fore-and-aft spinners. Either way, the straight retrieve (opposed to the zig-zag) is much easier to live with. And the lure is versatile. 

You can rip it with occasional lusty yanks, or just chuckle and tinkle it along, or ideally, a combination of the two.   

Side sweeps with the rod keep things sputtering, and here’s a trick worth remembering for tiring arms: Brace the butt of the two-handed stick against the off hip and simply twist in the direction of the next slush. This simple motion rips the plug and takes strain away from the stable arms.

I learned this while chunking XXL slush baits all day for peacock bass in Brazil.  

Slush plugs can excel over deeper depth or in off-color water or amid heavy chops. They create taunting commotion, “Come on, hit me with your best shot!” 

Conversely, soft dogwalkers are strictly a finesse approach, most effective across calm or riffled shallows. They tend to get lost under heavy-water circumstances. For this reason, having both types within easy reach is a solid plan during a long day. 

A drawback to the slush bait is that it is more fragile than the no-frills dogwalker. The thin metal props can bend, especially after getting mauled by a sow trout or a big redfish, you lucky rascal! If a blade doesn’t twirl properly, take a moment with needle nose pliers to reposition it. 

Both plug types bouncing amid air and water can tangle the casting line in the trebles, but the slush baits sport the added interference of the jazzy propellers. A good way to minimize tangles is to rig a short mono “shock leader” of 20 to 30 pound test. The heavier line is stiffer, less apt to flip over and snag. 

A loop knot can improve the action, allowing either type of plug an easier range of motion. If you must, a small metal snap swivel will suffice, but make certain it is of top quality. An “el cheapo” snap might straighten on the very fish you so desperately want. Trust me on this. In fact, trust me it was several times before I learned how to tie a simple and bulletproof loop connection.

Frankly, an improved clinch knot snugged tight works. Assuming the rod tip is doing its job, the nearest trout or red probably could care less. 

Popper-type surface plugs with dished-out faces are better suited for popping and pausing, dallying in specific ambush spots. For this reason, they are a mainstay among bass anglers casting to defined targets, but not so effective for covering open bay water. Exceptions might be working the sharp edge of a deep channel or chunking tight to jetty rocks.

These are the three primary types of topwater plugs. They have different applications, but all share a common denominator: They are horrifyingly easy to snatch away from a big fish with an open mouth doing its best to get caught. 

Remember those two senses of sight and sound. When they overload, it takes a cool hand to hold fire and “wait for weight” before yanking.

 

Email Joe Doggett at ContactUs@fishgame.com

 

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