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Preserving the Memory: 5 Steps to Ensuring a Proper Trophy Mount

Feature Story by MATT WILLIAMS

LISTEN: (5 minutes, 8 seconds)

 

THERE IS AN ARMY of deer hunters in Texas. Most will be out in force in the coming weeks with high hopes of tagging a buck worthy of a trip to their favorite taxidermy shop. Sadly, some of them will botch their trophies long before it sees the fleshing table.

As busy as deer hunters are these days, it may be an even busier time of year for the guys like David Clifton.

Clifton is a Cherokee County taxidermist who takes a lot of pride in his work. He has mounted all sorts of critters. Whitetail bucks are his specialty.

Caring for a trophy mount begins in the field. It is never a good idea to drag a deer through the woods as this can cause hair removal or bruising that may cause the hair to release after tanning.

Caring for a trophy mount begins in the field. It is never a good idea to drag a deer through the woods as this can cause hair removal or bruising that may cause the hair to release after tanning.
(Photo: Matt Williams)

Clifton has stretched more than 1,000 whitetail capes since he began mounting deer 24 years ago. He averages about 60-70 per year.

Admittedly, he hates it when a hunter comes calling expecting him to work miracles on a freezer-burned hide or a cape that has been hacked up so badly with a skinning knife that it can’t be salvaged.

Like most taxidermists, Clifton agreed that some mistakes can be corrected, but others can’t. He says hunters can at times be their own worst enemies when it comes to turning a once-in-a-lifetime trophy into a work of art they can enjoy for many years down the road.

I asked Clifton to share some tips for hunters to follow to help eliminate the possibility of hearing bad news when they drop off their trophy for mounting, and how to keep the finished product looking showroom new for seasons to come:

1. Make the Right Shot: Many high caliber rifles used for deer hunting will leave a bullet entry wound small enough to poke a pinky in, but the exit wound may be as large as a baseball.

Clifton says it is always best to shoot a trophy deer behind the shoulder so there won’t be any bullet holes to deal with once the cape has been transferred to the mannequin.

“It is not a good idea to shoot a deer in the neck,” Clifton said. “Even if the bullet doesn’t make an exit wound, it could displace a bunch of hair and potentially ruin the hide”

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2. Cape it Out: The cape is the portion of the deer hide that covers the shoulders, neck and head. On shoulder mounts, it must be removed and transferred onto the form of your choice.

Clifton said it is easy to damage a cape by getting sloppy with a skinning knife. One of the most common mistakes is cutting down the side of a deer’s front legs and into the white brisket area. Another is not leaving enough hide behind the shoulders to cover a shoulder mount form.

“You can ruin the cape really quick with a knife,” he said. “If you don’t feel comfortable doing it, it might be wise to let a taxidermist do it. There may be a fee, but it will be worth it in the long haul.”

Clifton said a lot of hunters still cut the throats on deer or cut the capes too short behind the shoulders. Both are big mistakes.

3. Care in the Field: Caring for a deer cape and head that is destined for the taxidermist is no different than caring for meat that is headed for the skillet. It’s best to keep it clean and place it in a cool environment as quickly as possible.

The Trophy Cooler might be a good investment for the care of trophies from field to finish. The cooler features a lid designed so the antlers protrude through the top.

The Trophy Cooler might be a good investment for the care of trophies from field to finish. The cooler features a lid designed so the antlers protrude through the top.
(Photo: Matt Williams)

If there is not a walk-in cooler available, Clifton recommends putting the cape and head in a plastic bag and placing it in an ice chest with fresh ice. Be sure to place the deer on top of the ice so the hair doesn’t get wet. Place the cooler at an angle so water will drain out of the plug as ice melts.

There are several good coolers on the market designed to help hunters care for their trophies from the field to the taxidermist. A popular one is the Trophy Cooler by TimeOff Products.

The cooler has a special lid designed so the antlers protrude through the top. The lid seals itself around the base of the horns. Use for whitetail deer, mule deer, antelope or exotics.

4. Show and Tell: Lots of hunters are inclined to drive around with a big buck in the back of their pick-up for hours showing their trophy to anyone willing to look.

Do so and you run the risk of ruining the cape, especially if it is warm outside. “If it’s really warm you need to get it on ice or in a cooler as soon as possible,” Clifton said.

Another frequent field care mistake is dragging the deer through the woods with its shoulder in contact with the ground or placing it in a pick-up bed with its shoulder or neck rubbing against something.

“This can cause some of the hair to fall out,” Clifton said. “If it rubs long enough, it could leave a bare spot.”

A damp Q-Tip works well for cleaning around the eyes.

A damp Q-Tip works well for cleaning around the eyes.
(Photo: Matt Williams)

5. Clean it up: Clifton recommends giving it a good cleaning once a year. The first order of business is blowing dust and dirt out of the hair using an air compressor. Always blow with the hair, not against it. Follow up by wiping lightly with a damp rag. A wood polish will add some color to the antlers. Use a damp rag on the nose and a Q-Tip to clean around the eyes.

 

—story by MATT WILLIAMS

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