Choosing the Best Leader for the Job

Don’t Forget Spoons For Specks
April 21, 2024

An abrasion test proved that monofilament is far better at resisting abrasion than braid.

For years when people asked me what leader I used for light tackle fishing, I scoffed and said “none!” You can tie just about any lure directly to green or blue braid, and the fish just don’t seem to care one iota. True, lifting a fish out of the water with braid can get sketchy since the braid can cut into your hand rather easily, but to me it was always more of an evil to have an extra knot and the potential failure point between me and the lure. Meanwhile, I heard plenty of claims about abrasion resistance, and how braid was exceptionally poor in that regard. At first I didn’t buy it. During 30-plus years in the fishing world I’ve seen an awful lot of assumptions and assertions that people accepted as fact, only to see them disproven over time. Finally, to put any doubt to rest I organized an abrasion line test.

testing fishing line

An abrasion test proved that monofilament is far better at resisting abrasion than braid.

While measuring pressure on a scale we stroked line against a rusty piece of rebar, using a range of braid and mono from three different manufacturers in sizes from 10- to 80-pound test. Then, we tested each for breaking strength. In short, this time the rumors were right – mono out-performed braid by 10- to 60-percent depending on size and weave. The bottom line? I purchased a bunch of fluorocarbon leaders and when I got home, set about tying them onto all of my lines, and I haven’t fished a direct braid-to-lure connection since. So, point number one: yes, you do need to tie on a leader. Beyond that, when choosing the best line for the task consider:

  1. Fluorocarbon vs Monofilament – Fluoro is a form of mono, but it’s a much more expensive form. As to whether it’s necessary or not there can be reasoned debate. That said, no one in their right mind would argue that using fluoro will reduce the number of bites you get. And I care a lot more about getting bites than saving five bucks at the tackle shop. So, this one’s a non-argument.
  2. Size – There’s no one-size-fits-all answer as to choosing the best size since all fish, all lures, and all scenarios are different. That said, as a rule of thumb it’s usually best to start with the lightest size deemed necessary for the fish, matching the weight of the largest you realistically hope to catch. Then double or triple the size depending on the nature of the situation. When you’re looking for reds up to 10 pounds over a muddy bottom, for example, you can get by using 10-pound leader (and plenty of finesse!). But over a shell bottom, double it to provide protection from abrasion. Around bridge pilings of jagged structure where break-offs are likely, triple it.
  3. Length – As long as you have 18 inches or more, you have a decent amount of chaff protection. But longer leaders are better for lifting fish into the boat, and provide more shock-absorption as well. Three or four feet is usually a good starting point and once it gets whittled down under 18 inches, consider tying on a new one.

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